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Accessible tourism

Diver Gary Allen and diving buddy John McDonagh about to take to the water in Salthill, with The Galway Dive School, Ireland

An edited version of this article was published in The Irish Times 19 November 2011

I have been wary of tackling the subject of disability for some time. I admit it, I was afraid of getting it wrong, using politically incorrect terminology or causing offence, and so, to my shame, I am only now starting to try and understand some of the real issues. It would appear, however, that I am not alone, with many other people working in tourism nervous of ‘getting it wrong’ and turning a blind eye (there you go, an inappropriate pun already). And with over 100,000 people working in accommodation and food services in Ireland alone, that’s a lot of people who are afraid to say ‘Can I help you?’.

There are a lot of myths around disabilities and tourism, according to a prestigious panel of speakers at last week’s World Travel Market in London, the ones who finally made me sit up and take notice of the fact that we in the tourism industry have not only failed millions of disabled people, but that we are also missing out on a potentially huge market. There are 12 million disabled people just across the water in the UK, over five million of whom are over state pension age.

Most accommodation websites offer information to families, walkers, cyclists, honeymooners, anglers and so on. If, however, you are blind, autistic, deaf, have arthritis or are a wheelchair user, then you’ll be surfing from dawn ‘til dusk to find an Irish cottage online with all the details you need.  If  you have a disability and go to discoverireland.com, you have to then go to the tab ‘Plan your Visit’, then click ‘Facts for Visitors’ and then finally (if you aren’t feeling marginalised enough already) to a  section marked ‘Disabled Travellers’. And at this point you are told to write to (not even a link) The National Rehabilitation Board for a fact sheet.

According to Jenifer Littman, CEO of Tourism for All, a UK charity dedicated to accessible tourism, “120 million people in Europe say they would travel more if they had facilities”. The problem is not always the lack of facilities, however, according to  Craig Grimes, founder of Experience Community (experiencecommunity.co.uk) who makes  accessibility videos of popular destinations in UK, and has also created an exciting new website called Accessible Travel, which looks at the accessibility of hotels in various popular destinations. One of the greatest difficulties is in the lack of information available before booking.  but in the lack of information available before booking. For example, can you get there by public transport, how far is it from the car park to reception,  is there is an induction loop, menus in Braille, do you have full measurements of doorways? Is there a bath and/or a shower, are there single beds for carers, allergenic bed linen, a proper fridge instead of minibar for storing medication? And if you can back it up with photos and video, even better.

Ross Calladine, Accessbility Manager at VisitEngland says that the potential market for tourists with disabilities coming to England has been quantified at £2 billion sterling. The reality is that money often creates change, but some will also act because they see it as common sense and good customer service, such as leading hotel chains Scandic in Scandinavia and Thistle in UK which have impressively detailed descriptions and photos of all their accessible facilities.  Also worth checking out is website openbritain.net, which not only provides a wealth of information but is also launching a travel app in January.

It is up to all of us working in tourism to provide the information people need to make their holidays memorable and accessible. Take a peek at VisitEngland (visitengland.org), a site which not only has good accessibility information for tourists, but also has excellent guidelines  on how to create an access statement. Put ‘access’ into their search box for a library full of resources.

I will start to get my own act together by putting this article here on my blog, and linking to any Irish tourism business doing more than the statutory minimum. Such as Saoirse-ar-an-uisce, a fully accessible boat trip on the Grand Canal (kildare.ie/community/easysiteswp/saoirse-ar-an-uisce), Wheelyboats (wheelyboats.org) an accessible fishing boat in Waterford, The Galway Dive School (divegalway.com) which teaches diving to people with various disabilities or Loughrea Riding Centre in Co. Galway, which offers riding breaks for disabled people, using specially constructed carriages (horsetrailsireland.com). Bet I can get the info up there quicker than you can write ‘Dear Sir – please can you post me a factsheet…’

Note from author: I had very positive responses to this article which included the following information:

  • Pioneering website for independent travellers, Tripbod, has since announced that it is embracing accessible tourism into its business model, and inviting Tripbods from all around the world who have knowledge of accessibility in their area to sign up and share their knowledge. See article giving more details on this.
  • Inclusive London, an app for iphones and Android was launched in December 2011.  This free app aims to give greater freedom to people with specific access requirements who are planning a trip to the capital. Linked to the Greater London Authority’s (GLA) InclusiveLondon.com website, the app provides a range of information to people with access needs, including those with disabilities, older people and parents with young children and buggies.
  • One Irish Times reader, Sean O’Kelly, who is also a wheelchair user, wrote to me with details of two websites which may be of interest. One is disabilityawareness.yolasite.com, which was set up by Sean himself, promoting disability awareness in Irish secondary schools through workshops. The other website he uses for his own travels is  disabledgo.com.
  • Another reader directed me to a very useful map resource which has public access so that we can all upload our favourite places with good accessibility. It is called Wheelmap (http://wheelmap.org) and it uses technology which already exists to pinpoint places of  interest on maps (like Wikipedia but for maps), but this version adds accessibility details. Start adding your favourite places in your chosen destinations and get the wheels rolling on this one.  There is also an app available, more details of which can be found here. Wheelmap also recommends the use of apps  iLOE and Mapzen POI collector to tag places, going to ‘Leisure‘ to find out about the wheelchair accessible status of places around you.
  • One reader, Jean Dolan sums up the views of so many tourists who have access issues. I have posted them in a separate post so do please take the time to read them. She expressed her concerns to the businesses in question, and they never replied, so here is a chance for her to voice some of her well founded frustrations.
  • Thanks to the Brothers of Charity in Kilkee, County Clare, and two local women who ran a marathon to raise funds, there is now a beach accessible wheelchair on this stunning Blue Flag beach, available for use from July until end August
  • The Irish Wheelchair Association’s  initiative in Dunamon, Co Roscommon, where several extra-wide pontoon jetties have been built out over the River Suck to facilitate wheelchair-users who want to go fishing.
  • Fantastic new surfing company Long Line Surf in Benone, Co. Derry is very happy to help people with disabilities learn to surf. In their own words, “Down here at Long Line we feel that everyone should be given the opportunity to try it at least once and so we have created a lesson programme for people with disabilities, whether you have a physical disability or you have Down’s syndrome or Asperger’s Syndrome we are more than happy to take you out”. Great company led by a switched to sustainability, Dan Lavery
  • And check this out from Disabled Divers International, whose website also has a load of great accessible diving centres listed on it.
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Family fishing holiday in Ireland

A load of Pollocks. Photo: Catherine Mack

There is a growing trend on Twitter for #PostiveIreland entries: stories of Irish people who are turning recession and depression into a renaissance of creativity and resourcefulness. This is as tangible in tourism as anywhere else and Dúlra Nature Tours in Erris,CountyMayo, is a gleaming example of new, exciting forms of tourism, which brings us back to nature and our fine local resources.

Belmullet fisherman Anthony Irwin has teamed up with partner Angela Healy to create a ‘Catch and Cook’ weekend off that spectacular stretch of coast which is, sadly, more associated with the local disputes with Shell than sustainable tourism. There was no thought given to politics this weekend, however, as we left Blacksod Pier first thing in the morning, and headed out into the Atlantic on board Dúlra na Mara for a day of adventures. After about an hour, during which our skipper, another local Simon Sweeney, shared the history of islands which passed us by, we found a good spot and had a quick angling lesson. Within minutes the waves were echoing with cheers as, one by one, we pulled in buckets full of Mackerel and Pollock.

The Dúlra team are not just fishermen, however, they are also expert nature guides and cooks (this is where Angela steps in), ensuring that our lunch stop on the white sandy beaches of deserted island Inis Ge wasn’t short of a good story or a fine bite to eat. Once a hive of activity when it was home to a whaling station (closed in 1914, thankfully), wildlife thrives here now, home to Barnacle Geese in winter, nesting seabirds in spring, and seals all year round.  Lunch was equally impressive in its wildness, a fresh fish and pinto bean stew, scones made with duileasc seaweed and homemade bread. All devoured from our perch overlooking the tiny harbour with its well preserved stone cottages, now only used by ex-residents who come back to holiday, and the sheltered calm, clear waters.

There was nothing these lads didn’t know about the island, especially the best bird watching points, as they led us up over the hills to the far side of the island, past the architectural wonders of 18th century navigation towers, over the old lazy beds which villagers had cultivated, to the windy cliffs which are home to hundreds of nesting Fulmars. We were gently encouraged to crawl to the edge and lie on tummies. Anthony was made to hold onto my feet, however, as I am such a wimp, but boy was it worth it. For about twenty minutes we all just lay there, mesmerised by the magic of these mothering seabirds, as they swooped back and forth protecting and nurturing.

Back on board, and after a bit more fishing, we were heading back to the mainland, when Anthony handed my youngest son the binoculars. “Dolphins!” he yelled, and within minutes, engines off, a pod of beauties was surfing our bow. A definite Twitter  #positiveireland moment, where you can also check out my video of it all.  A more than giddy bunch of adults and kids were then minibused back to the luxurious self-catering house which was home for the weekend. The only difference is that there is nothing self-catering about it, as we arrived back to a gourmet fish feast prepared by Angela, and added to by us, our catch proudly held high. But not before we were taught to fillet it and prepare it first. If this doesn’t

Spotting dolphins on the way home Photo: www.dulra.ie

have your kids eating fish, nothing will.

The adventures continue into the next day with a walking tour around Erris Head, mussel and seaweed foraging and more gourmet gorgeousness back at the house. The house, by the way, is an impressive sustainable timber frame design, built by Anthony. Is there nothing this dynamic duo can’t do, I wonder? They are so charismatic, creative and committed to their region and its sustainability, I have a feeling that you should book in quick, as someone with any sense will try and snap them up for a TV series. Accommodating ten, this is the perfect ethical corporate  break, family reunion, or big birthday bash, or just go for a one day option, if you have accommodation somewhere else in the region. Although, nothing beats catching, cooking, eating, drinking and then just collapsing. Watch a video our memorable family day out here. This article was first published in The Irish Times

 

A bit of scary birdwatching on Inis Ge Photo: Catherine Mack
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Teapot Lane Luxury Yurt Camp, Leitrim Ireland – so cute it’s camp

Teapot Lane - a great place for old friends and their kids to catch up Photo: Catherine Mack

While the rest of Europe has gone ‘glamping’ crazy,Ireland is still playing catch up.  In some ways this is a good thing, with the UK and France offering such a plethora of posh pitches now, it almost has me pining for my old four man Vango. But then I step inside the comforting cocoon of a yurt and, fickle and weak, I’m hooked again. And they don’t get much lovelier than Leitrim’s latest offering.

Although Teapot Lane Luxury Yurt Camp looks a bit ‘yummy mummy’ on its website, with its spotty wellies, teapots and pamper pages, don’t judge a book. This carefully thought out eco-venture, run by Derval McGovern, has managed to encapsulate so many aspects of a truly responsible tourism business, it can fly its green flag as high as its gobsmackingly gorgeous one. Thanks to Teapot Lane, Leitrim just got lovelier.

Teapot Lane has achieved in a year what other European glamp camps have only managed to pull off after ten. It’s more like a mini festival of green outdoor living, with plenty of indoor space to cater for Irish weather too. As well as three luxury yurts all equipped with wood burning stoves, cast iron beds with top of the range bed linen, fairy lights and lanterns, there is a thatched self-catering cottage, and a private bathroom with roll top bath in case you just can’t do compost loos and outdoor showers. When the self-catering cottage is vacant, this bathroom is available for yurt users too. The yurts’ showers are powered by gas, are tankless, need no electric supply and use a combination of mains and rainwater from the roof, and both showers and toilets are concealed in sensitively designed wooden huts alongside each yurt.

When we arrived at Teapot Lane, there was homemade vegetable soup and bread to welcome people after their journey, all laid out in the well equipped chalet kitchen with its two big tables, crockery, board games, books, cupboards full of ready made salad dressings, olive oils, spices, herbs and everything you might need to do the perfect camping cook-in.

There is never a big crowd cooking here either, as Derval has committed to keeping her remote woodland site restricted to small numbers.  It is ideal, therefore, for coming with a gang of friends or a few families taking over the whole camp, bagsying every tree swing, hammock, and campfire stool for a week of chilling in comfort. And at €100 per night for a yurt sleeping 4-6, this is fair and square sustainable tourism.

Nearby Mullaghmore Strand in Sligo. Photo: Catherine Mack

The location is ‘tri-licious’ too, sitting pretty on the borders of three counties. Donegal’s beaches of Bundoran and Tullan Strand are both under 13 kms from the camp, Sligo’s stunning Mullaghmore Strand a perfect cycle down quiet roads just 8kms away, and Leitrim’s famous hillwalks around the Dartry Mountains are within about 5kms. You can even bring your dog for some serious walking, as Teapot Lane welcomes responsible dog owners too.

Teapot Lane has good links with local activity providers, organising surfing or riding lessons, fishing or foraging trips and guided walks. Or follow the nearby North West Cycle Trail along endless, pretty backroads, hiring a bike from Hire and Sell in Bundoran, Tel: 071 98 41526.

Blessed with good weather, we took advantage of the excellent surfing instructors at the Donegal Adventure Centre in Bundoran and spent an exhilarating few hours on Tullan Strand. I followed this up with a heavenly hour of aromatherapy massage back at the camp in Derval’s treatment room, while the rest of the gang headed off to raid PJ O’Reilly’s fish van in Bundoran of its daily catch to throw on the barbecue.

But it’s at night that Teapot Lane really started to shine for me. This is the time of day when glamping turns back to camping, when the stars come out, the campfire comes to life, lanterns are lit, the yurts glow, wood burners smoke and children cuddle in hammocks among the silhouetted trees. When the rain kicks in, you can just head to your circle of canvas, warmed up in minutes by the wood burner, and just watch the rain from your king size bed. Sorry, Vango, you’ll just have to wait for next year.

www.teapotlaneluxurycamp.com   An edited version of this article was first published in The Irish Times in June 2011

Photo: Catherine Mack



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Ballynahinch Castle – wins my crown of Connemara

Catherine's son at Ballnahinch Castle Photo: Catherine Mack

Not only has Connemara’s Ballynahinch Castle Hotel got sixty five candles to light for its current birthday celebrations, but it has close to that many ethical flags to fly too. With a heart stoppingly gorgeous location overlooking it’s own (Ballynahinch) River and Lake, with grounds which drift seamlessly into the foothills of the Twelve Bens Mountains, this is a hotel which takes its extraordinary position seriously, treading lightly throughout.

With the river and lake at it’s heart, the hotel’s Estate Manager, Simon Ashe, talks passionately of his team’s Catchment Management Programme to conserve vital fish stocks, as well as their campaign against fish farming and drift nets. So far, they are winning their ecological battle, with salmon stocks doubling since the closure of the Irish drift nets fishery in 2007. You certainly have plenty of opportunities to sample the unforgettable flavours of fine, fresh and wild fish here, with lemon sole as the catch of the day on my breakfast menu, which gets you off to a good start on any holiday.

The aptly named Ashe has also been responsible for planting over two thousand trees on the estate, and visitors who want to contribute to this woodland management scheme are given a certificate with their tree’s GPS coordinates, so they or their families can locate it in years to come. These are not the tokenistic gestures which the growing green trend in tourism has witnessed in some hotels, where tree planting, for example, can sometimes be a mere tick boxing exercise. Ashe, who knows every tree, shrub, wildflower and weed on his estate, has also opened a disused well to supply the hotel’s water, including beautifully bottled water for the rooms, installed a giant wood chip burner and solar panels to create the hotel’s energy, and has an impressive recycling facility.

One of the most exciting developments at Ballynahinch is the recent opening of a disused railway line which runs through

One of the walking trails at Ballynahinch Castle

the hotel’s grounds as a looped woodland walk, with boardwalks covering fragile ecosystems, allowing access to bits of Ballynahinch’s beauty which you couldn’t reach before. A clever move, as there greater plans for a Connemara Greenway, similar to Mayo’s Great Western Greenway, using the same old railway line and nearby lanes as an off road cycling and walking trail, within the next year or so. You can already make the most of stunning cycling in the area, as bikes are available for guests’ use. With Roundstone just a few kilometres away, you can cycle to the sea and back before breakfast, if you’re keen.

Ballynahinch Castle celebrates everything that people used to come to Connemara for. They have a full time walking guide on staff now, Noel Joyce, who will take you just about wherever you want, be it just around the grounds to give you a history of the trees (and their planters) or into the mountains where Noel will regale you with his knowledge of the Gaeltacht and it’s social, archaeological and natural history.

One other thing which really sets Ballynahinch apart for me, however, is its genuine passion for Ireland’s cultural heritage. Des Lally, who described himself as the ‘night porter’ the evening we arrived, was not only top of his game in terms of hospitality and warmth, but I was then to discover that he is co-editor of a beautiful book of poetry recently published by Occasional Press, in association with Ballynahinch Castle, called “An Afterglow: A Gallery of Connemara Poems”. That’s Ballynahinch for you. The hotel is brimming with local artwork and fine books so, all in all, no wonder many of our leaders in the arts are coming to the hotel to take part in their birthday celebrations, with various events planned throughout the year. Their latest publication, the stunning  A Connemara Folio” by Donald Teskey,  is a collection of eminent artists’ visions of Connemara.

Photo: Catherine Mack

Ballynahinch manages to wear its achievements lightly, however. It’s neither flash nor fuddy duddy, and welcomes everyone in through its doors to join what feels like one constant house party, birthday or no birthday. So, if you have a treat in mind, go help blow out the candles this year, and raise a toast to effortless ethics, carried out with exemplary commitment and class. For more photos see my slideshow on Flickr.

www.ballynahinch-castle.com

An edited version of this article was first published in The Irish Times in June 2011